What Is Ohenro? Meaning, Purpose & the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage

What Is Ohenro? Meaning, Purpose & the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage
Curious Reader
I’ve heard the word Ohenro before, but what does it actually mean?
Why do people do it?
Does religion or Buddhist sect matter if you want to take part?
I’d love a simple explanation.

In this article, I’ll answer those questions and explain what Ohenro really is in the clearest and simplest way possible.

What You’ll Learn in This Article

  • What Ohenro means, why people do it, and what its purpose is
  • Whether Ohenro is connected to a specific Buddhist sect
  • The origin, background, and history of Ohenro
  • What “osettai,” one of the best-known customs of the pilgrimage, actually means

This article will walk you through the history, meaning, and spiritual background of Ohenro in an easy-to-understand way. If you’ve ever wondered, “What is Ohenro?” you’ll find the answer here.

Hajime
Be sure to read to the end!

What Is Ohenro?

What Is Ohenro?

Ohenro is a pilgrimage around the 88 temples in Shikoku associated with Kobo Daishi, also known as Kukai, visiting them one by one in order.

Hajime
When I say “pilgrimage,” think of it not as ordinary travel, but as a journey of walking, praying, and bringing your heart into alignment.

Ohenro has continued for centuries and has been passed down in Shikoku as a deeply rooted part of everyday culture.

You may have heard the name before, but at the center of this tradition is Kukai—also known as Kobo Daishi—a revered Buddhist monk from long ago.

Ohenro as a Living Tradition

Ohenro has a traditional form that has been preserved for generations, and at its core, it is quite simple.

  • Visit the 88 temples of Shikoku in sequence
  • Follow proper etiquette and offer your prayers at each temple
  • Pray for yourself or your family, express gratitude, or make the journey in remembrance of someone

These three elements have long been at the heart of Ohenro as a tradition.

Ohenro is also known by several other names.

Other Names for Ohenro
  • Ohenro Pilgrimage
  • Shikoku Henro
  • Shikoku Pilgrimage
  • 88 Temple Pilgrimage
  • Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage
  • Pilgrimage to the 88 Sacred Sites
  • Temple Pilgrimage

As you can see, the tradition is referred to in different ways depending on the person.

Curious Reader
So “Shikoku Pilgrimage” and “88 Temples” are basically talking about Ohenro too.

In short, Ohenro is an age-old pilgrimage in which people visit the 88 temples of Shikoku associated with Kukai (Kobo Daishi).

And within each step of that pilgrimage lives a long-inherited culture of prayer and gratitude.

What Do “Ohenro-san” and “Ohenro-sama” Mean?

Ohenro-san” is a warm, familiar way of referring to someone making the pilgrimage around the sacred temples of Shikoku.

Hajime
It’s a term local people often use when speaking to pilgrims.

On the other hand, “Ohenro-sama” is a more respectful and formal expression.

You will often hear it in the context of osettai, or when older locals speak to pilgrims with particular reverence.

Both expressions reflect Shikoku’s unique culture of honoring and caring for those on pilgrimage. There is no single “correct” answer.

In everyday conversation, “Ohenro-san” is more common, but both are respectful ways to refer to a person on pilgrimage.

What Is the Meaning and Purpose of Ohenro? Why Do People Do It?

Curious Reader
What is the actual meaning or purpose of Ohenro?
Why do people choose to do it?
Hajime
That’s a great question. It’s one of the most important things to understand about the pilgrimage.

The most common reasons people take part in Ohenro include the following:

  1. Prayer: wishes for health, family happiness, success in work, exams, and other hopes for the future
  2. Memorial devotion: expressing gratitude to someone who has passed away and finding inner peace through prayer
  3. A turning point in life: marking a new chapter such as a job change, divorce, graduation, moving, or recovery
  4. Finding yourself again: restoring balance to a life or heart that has become exhausted or unsettled

At its core, Ohenro is a pilgrimage in which people visit the 88 temples of Shikoku while praying, remembering loved ones, and reflecting on their own hearts.

So if someone asks, “Why do people do Ohenro?” the honest answer is that there is no single reason. It depends on the individual.

In recent years, some people have also joined the pilgrimage simply because of the temple stamp boom, thinking of it as a way to collect goshuin stamps. And that, too, can be one reason someone begins Ohenro.

Hajime
For people who deeply admire Kukai, Ohenro can also feel like a sacred journey to follow in his footsteps.

The Most Common Reasons: Prayer, Memorial, and Life Transitions

People walk Ohenro for many different reasons, but the three most common are prayer, memorial devotion, and major life transitions.

For those who walk in prayer, the journey is made with hopes for personal health, family happiness, or success in work and life.

Hajime
In that sense, it’s very similar to the way people normally visit temples to pray.

For memorial purposes, Ohenro becomes a journey of gratitude and remembrance for someone who has passed away, or a way to calm one’s own heart.

It can be a deeply meaningful act of prayer for the peace of the departed, a wish for their rest, and an expression of gratitude that is carried step by step along the road.

In Shikoku, some even say that this form of memorial devotion can feel stronger than an ordinary visit to a grave or family altar.

Curious Reader
It sounds physically demanding, so I can see why it would feel powerful as a memorial offering.

As a life transition, Ohenro is often chosen by people who want to rebuild themselves during a turning point in life—after changing jobs, moving, heartbreak, divorce, or illness recovery.

What all of these motivations share is this: walking, praying, and visiting temples helps people sort through their feelings and take the next step forward.

Hajime
That’s why Ohenro has continued for so long—not only as a way to pray for something, but also as a time to steady the heart.

As a side note, there are stories that when Kukai himself traveled through Shikoku, he was performing ascetic practice and even guiding temples in the region toward Shingon Buddhism. Some legends even say that he was spiritually protecting Shikoku itself.

By contrast, some people say that walking the pilgrimage in reverse—from Temple 88 back to Temple 1—symbolically breaks that spiritual barrier.
Hajime
That idea even appears in the horror novel that became the film Shikoku.

How much of that is literal truth is impossible to say, but one thing is clear: the meaning and purpose of Ohenro can differ from person to person.

Curious Reader
That’s what makes Ohenro so fascinating—the meaning changes depending on the person.

What Buddhist Sect Is Ohenro Connected To? Can People from Other Backgrounds Join?

What Buddhist Sect Is Ohenro Connected To? Can People from Other Backgrounds Join?

Many people wonder:

Which Buddhist sect is Ohenro connected to?
Can I still take part if I follow a different religion—or none at all?

The short answer is this: because Ohenro is rooted in the path of Kukai (Kobo Daishi), it has a strong foundation in Shingon Buddhism.

But in practice, Ohenro is not a place where people compete over the depth of their faith.

That means people from other sects, other religions, or no religion at all are absolutely welcome to take part.

Hajime
Most foreign visitors who come to Japan to do Ohenro are not Buddhist, after all.

From here, I’ll explain clearly:
why Shingon Buddhism is seen as the foundation,
how to think about Ohenro if you come from another background,
and why some of the temples on the route actually belong to other sects.

At Its Core, Ohenro Is Rooted in Shingon Buddhism Founded by Kukai

As mentioned above, the main religious foundation of Ohenro is Shingon Buddhism.

According to the Shikoku 88 Temple Association, the 88 sacred sites of Shikoku were established around 1,200 years ago in connection with Kobo Daishi (Kukai), the founder of Shingon Buddhism.

It is also said that Kukai walked through Shikoku for training and spiritual practice, and that because of his influence, many temples on the route became Shingon temples.

So when people ask which sect Ohenro belongs to, Shingon Buddhism is the spiritual foundation.

In Fact, Not All Temples on the Route Belong to Shingon Buddhism

Although many people assume that all Ohenro temples are Shingon temples, the 88 temples actually include some from other sects as well.

Sects Other Than Shingon on the Route

  • 4 Tendai temples
  • 2 Rinzai temples
  • 1 Soto temple
  • 1 Ji-shu temple

Historically, the route may have been even more diverse, and some temples are believed to have changed sect affiliation over time.

Curious Reader
I assumed Ohenro was purely a Shingon custom, but apparently not.
Hajime
That’s right. There are even stories that some temples chose not to convert despite Kukai’s influence.
Does that mean the way you pray changes depending on the temple’s sect?

No—not really.

Even when the temple belongs to a different sect, the basic pilgrimage etiquette remains the same, so there is usually no need to worry about each temple’s sect while doing Ohenro.

You Can Join Ohenro Even If You Follow Another Religion—or None at All

Some people worry, “Is it okay if I’m from another faith, or not religious at all?” The answer is yes—absolutely.

At its heart, Buddhism does not turn people away.

The Japan Heritage Portal of the Agency for Cultural Affairs describes the Shikoku pilgrimage as:

a “journey of the heart” in which anyone—regardless of nationality, religion, or sect—can become an Ohenro pilgrim and walk with their own hopes, prayers, discipline, healing, or remembrance.
Curious Reader
If anyone is welcome, that makes it much easier to take part.
Hajime
Exactly. It’s a little like climbing the same mountain—some do it for exercise, others for the scenery, but everyone can make the ascent.

The Origin and History of Ohenro: What Is the Relationship Between Kukai and the Pilgrimage?

The origin of Ohenro is traditionally linked to the sacred places of Shikoku associated with the spiritual training of Kobo Daishi Kukai.

Because Kukai was born in what is now Kagawa Prefecture in Shikoku (then known as Sanuki Province) and is said to have trained there, Shikoku became the land of this pilgrimage, and that tradition continues to this day.

According to the Agency for Cultural Affairs, the roots of the pilgrimage go back to monks and ascetics of the Heian period. By the Kamakura period, famous figures such as Saigyo, Honen, and Ippen are also said to have visited Shikoku, and over time the pilgrimage spread to ordinary people as well.

Source: Agency for Cultural Affairs – Ohenro

Later, during the Edo period, improved travel routes made long-distance pilgrimage more accessible, and Shikoku came to be seen as a sacred place—firmly establishing Ohenro as part of Japanese culture.

The “88 Temple Pilgrimage” Means Visiting All 88 Sacred Temples

Another common name for Ohenro is the 88 Temple Pilgrimage. The name comes directly from the act of visiting the 88 sacred temple sites spread across Shikoku.

Curious Reader
So the name literally means visiting all 88 temples.
Hajime
Exactly. Completing all 88 temples is the classic goal of the pilgrimage.

The Basic Way of Thinking About the 88 Temples

A core idea of the Shikoku 88 Temple pilgrimage is that all 88 temples form one connected pilgrimage path, and every temple matters.

Some people also believe that because the entire island of Shikoku forms the pilgrimage circuit, it is acceptable to begin from any point on the route.

That is why many people take the approach of visiting temples at their own pace, whenever they can, over the course of a lifetime until they complete the full circuit.

What Does Ketsugan Mean?

Ketsugan is the word used when a pilgrim has successfully visited all 88 temples of the Shikoku pilgrimage.

It carries the sense of “bringing one’s vow to completion,” marking the end of the pilgrimage.

Hajime
It may look like it should be read one way, but in this context it is pronounced “kechigan.”

You may also hear the term Mangan, which is another word used for the same idea.

Once all 88 temples have been completed, some say that your prayers may finally come to fulfillment as part of completing the vow.

What Does Dogyo Ninin Mean? “Even Alone, You Are Not Truly Alone.”

What Does Dogyo Ninin Mean? “Even Alone, You Are Not Truly Alone.”

There is a phrase that has long been treasured in Ohenro: Dogyo Ninin.

Curious Reader
What is Dogyo Ninin? I’ve never heard that before.
Hajime
It means that on the Ohenro journey, you are walking together with Kobo Daishi.

So even if you are physically traveling alone, the meaning is that you are not truly alone—you are walking alongside Kobo Daishi.

Some people who have actually completed the pilgrimage—especially on foot—say they genuinely felt that presence.

Hajime
I’ve had moments on the pilgrimage myself when I truly felt protected by something beyond myself.
Curious Reader
That’s incredible… maybe there really is some mysterious force at work.

What Does “Namu Daishi Henjo Kongo” Mean on the Back of the White Pilgrimage Jacket?

Many people notice the phrase Namu Daishi Henjo Kongo written on the back of the white garment, or byakue, worn by Ohenro pilgrims.

This phrase is read “namu daishi henjo kongo,” and it can be understood as a kind of vow: “I entrust myself to Kobo Daishi (Kukai) and walk with him as my spiritual support.”

Pilgrims may chant it during prayer or even use it almost like a greeting along the road.

Breaking it down, “Namu” is a Buddhist term that expresses devotion or entrusting oneself spiritually.

In Buddhist terms, it means to rely on something noble and place yourself under its guidance.

You may have heard phrases such as Namu Amida Butsu or Namu Myoho Renge Kyo.

In that sense, they are declarations of trust—something like saying, “I entrust myself to the power of Amida Buddha” or “I rely on the Lotus Sutra.”

Curious Reader
So those Buddhist phrases I’ve heard before actually carry that meaning.

Next, “Daishi Henjo Kongo” refers to another sacred name for Kukai.

By the way, “Daishi” means “great teacher” and is an honorific title used for highly revered monks.

So taken together, Namu Daishi Henjo Kongo means something like: “I place my trust in Kobo Daishi and rely on his spiritual guidance.”

Curious Reader
I see. So in simple terms, it’s a bit like carrying a protective charm that says, “I’m walking together with Kukai.”
Hajime
That image works surprisingly well—especially since it’s written right on the pilgrim’s back.

What Is Osettai? One of the Most Important Traditions of Ohenro

Osettai refers to the acts of kindness shown by local people in Shikoku to Ohenro pilgrims.

In Shikoku, this is not unusual at all—it is a natural and deeply rooted part of the culture.

Osettai can take many forms, including:

  • Offering drinks or food
  • Giving directions
  • Offering words of encouragement or small gifts
  • Providing rest stops or free lodging known as zenkonyado

In this way, the people of Shikoku support pilgrims, and there is also a long-standing idea that if someone cannot make the pilgrimage themselves, they can support another person who walks in their place.

There is also a belief that performing osettai itself is an act of spiritual merit.

When I was on pilgrimage myself, I even came across a scene where elementary school children were being taught, as part of their education, how to offer osettai to pilgrims.

This may not be very familiar in many countries, but in Buddhist cultures such as Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar, there is a practice called takuhatsu, where people offer food or money to monks. In some ways, the spirit feels similar.

Curious Reader
Leaving aside the idea of having someone walk in your place, simply being kind to others feels like a beautiful way of thinking.
Hajime
Exactly. In Buddhism, there is a teaching that what you give to others eventually returns to you. Osettai is a living expression of that idea.

In short, osettai is not only meaningful for the people who walk Ohenro. For those who cannot make the pilgrimage themselves, it is also a precious part of Shikoku culture that allows their feelings and prayers to travel with the journey.

Ohenro Is a Pilgrimage Journey Through the 88 Sacred Temples of Shikoku

Ohenro is a pilgrimage through the 88 temples of Shikoku

Ohenro is a pilgrimage journey through the 88 temples of Shikoku connected to the spiritual training of Kukai, also known as Kobo Daishi.

As you can see, people take part in Ohenro for many different reasons—prayer, remembrance, life transitions, healing, or simply a desire to reconnect with themselves.

Curious Reader
I see. That really helped me understand Ohenro better.

If you ever visit Shikoku, it may be worth stopping by even one temple for a day trip and experiencing a small part of the pilgrimage for yourself.

Hajime
You will almost certainly see real pilgrims along the way, and it becomes a wonderful chance to experience this culture firsthand.