[Beginner’s Guide] How to Start Shikoku Ohenro: Steps, Etiquette, and What to Prepare

Ohenro Beginner's Guide - First Pilgrimage Path

Curious Visitor
I’m interested in the Shikoku pilgrimage (Ohenro), but I’m a complete beginner. I have no idea where to even start — how do I actually begin, what’s the proper etiquette, and what do I need to prepare? I just feel overwhelmed.

If you feel that way, you are far from alone.

The Shikoku Ohenro is a 1,200-year-old pilgrimage that visits 88 sacred temples. But it is much more open and flexible than most people imagine, and anyone can begin. This article organizes the key points a first-time pilgrim truly needs, step by step.

This article will walk you through the following:

  • The basics of Ohenro and what every beginner should know first
  • A clear 3-step way to start without getting lost
  • The flow of temple etiquette (greeting, name slips, temple seal)
  • The minimum outfit, gear, and budget for your first pilgrimage
  • The difference between forward, reverse, full, and segmented pilgrimage
Hajime
I’m the writer of this article, and I have personally completed the 88-temple Shikoku pilgrimage by motorcycle. I’ve met walking pilgrims, driving pilgrims, and many first-timers along the way. I’ll share the pitfalls beginners typically run into, in the simplest way possible!

Ohenro Basics for Beginners: What the 88-Temple Shikoku Pilgrimage Really Is

Ohenro Basics for Beginners: What the 88-Temple Shikoku Pilgrimage Really Is

Ohenro refers to a pilgrimage around 88 sacred temples (reijo) scattered across Shikoku Island. Pilgrims visit temples connected to Kobo Daishi (Kukai), the founder of Shingon Buddhism, in a tradition that has continued for over 1,200 years.

Today, people walk it not only for spiritual training, but also to mark a turning point in life, to pray for loved ones, or for family healing. You do not need to be religious or well-versed in Buddhism at all.

In recent years, international visitors, people in their 20s, and seniors in their 50s and beyond are all walking the route. It is said more than 100,000 pilgrims visit each year. The modern Ohenro is less about “ascetic training” and more about taking time to face yourself.

Distance and Duration of the Pilgrimage

The total route of the 88 temples covers about 1,200 km. Here is the typical time required by each method of travel.

Method Days Needed Features
Walking About 40–50 days Most traditional. Requires stamina, time, and budget
Car / Taxi About 10–12 days Efficient. Easy to complete in one trip
Bus Tour About 10–12 days Can be split into several scheduled segments
Segmented Several years Spread across weekends or holidays

Is It Really OK for a Beginner?

The short answer is, yes, beginners are completely welcome. Ohenro is a generous pilgrimage that does not judge the depth of your faith or experience.

Curious Visitor
Is it really OK if I cannot read the sutras, or if I make small mistakes in etiquette?
Hajime
Absolutely. Temple staff are kind to those who say “this is my first time,” and fellow pilgrims often teach you on the spot. One of the best things about Ohenro is that you do not need to aim for perfection!

How to Start Ohenro in 3 Steps: A Beginner-Friendly Route to Your First Temple

Starting Ohenro becomes simple if you follow these 3 steps. Trying to decide everything at once is overwhelming, so take it in order.

Step 1: Decide When to Go and How to Travel

First, decide when you will go and how you will move. Spring (March–May) and autumn (October–November) are the most comfortable seasons for walking.

As for travel, you can choose from walking, car, taxi, bus tour, or a proxy service. If you cannot take long time off work or away from family, segmented pilgrimage or a proxy service are the realistic options.

Step 2: Gather the Minimum Outfit and Items

The first three items a beginner should prepare are just the white robe (byakue), stole (wagesa), and sutra book (nokyocho). Together they cost around 5,000 yen.

You can buy everything at the shop near Ryozenji, Temple No. 1. Buying on-site is the easiest way — there is no need to order online in advance.

Step 3: Start from Ryozenji, Temple No. 1

Once you have your gear, you begin Ohenro from Ryozenji in Tokushima (Temple No. 1). Ryozenji is accessible as a day trip from the Kansai area, and it is the ideal place for a beginner’s first step.

You do not strictly have to start from Temple No. 1 in order. However, for beginners, going in order (“jun-uchi”) is the easiest to follow, so starting from No. 1 is the safest choice.

If you want a deeper look at the different pilgrimage styles by travel method, please also read this article.

Ohenro Etiquette for Beginners: From Prayer to Name Slips and Temple Seals

Ohenro Etiquette for Beginners: From Prayer to Name Slips and Temple Seals

Each temple visit follows a basic sequence of etiquette. Knowing it helps, but small mistakes are not a problem at all. What truly matters is praying with sincerity.

Basic Flow at Each Temple

At every temple, your visit roughly follows these steps.

Basic Steps of Worship at Each Temple
  • Bow once at the main gate before entering
  • Purify your hands and mouth at the water pavilion (chozuya)
  • Pray at the main hall (gassho, sutra, name slip, offering)
  • Pray at the Daishi hall (same etiquette)
  • Receive the red stamp and calligraphy at the seal office
  • Bow once as you leave the gate

How to Do Gassho (Palms Together)

Gassho is a simple gesture: place your palms together in front of your chest and bow your head slightly. Even if you cannot read sutras, gassho with “thank you” or “I entrust myself” in your heart is completely acceptable.

As you get used to it, you may recite the Heart Sutra (Hannya Shingyo) at both the main hall and the Daishi hall for a more formal visit. Many temples also lend sutra books.

Name Slip, Offering, and Temple Seal

At the main hall and the Daishi hall, place your name slip (osamefuda) in the designated box. The name slip carries your name, address, and prayer. The color is white for the 1st–4th pilgrimages, and it changes from the 5th and beyond.

Next, make your monetary offering, light a candle and three incense sticks, then pray and chant. Finally, at the seal office (nokyosho), you receive the red stamp and calligraphy for 500 yen per temple.

The seal fee was revised in April 2024, and the red stamp in your sutra book is now 500 yen per temple (44,000 yen total for 88 temples). Older sources still list the pre-revision rate of 300 yen, so please plan your budget with the updated amount (source: Shikoku 88-Temple Association).

There is no fixed amount for the offering. Even 5 or 10 yen is not considered rude, so simply give what feels right. For candles and incense, one candle at each hall and three incense sticks is a common guideline.

Curious Visitor
So I pray at both the main hall and the Daishi hall. I had no idea…
Hajime
Some beginners only pray at the main hall. However, Kobo Daishi himself is enshrined at the Daishi hall, so praying at both is the true Ohenro basic. Do not forget!

What to Prepare for Your First Ohenro: Outfit, Essentials, and Budget at the Minimum

For a first-time pilgrim, it’s easiest to think in three simple categories: a 3-piece outfit, practical essentials, and travel costs. You do not need to gather everything at once. Start with what you need first.

The 3 Basic Items for Ohenro Outfit

If you want to look the part, these three items are all you need.

Item Meaning Price Range
White robe (byakue) Formal look for worship, symbol of pilgrim 2,000–4,000 yen
Stole (wagesa) Minimum formal item worn at prayer 2,000–3,000 yen
Sutra book (nokyocho) Book that records the temple seals 2,500–5,000 yen

Together these come to about 5,000–10,000 yen. You can buy them all at Ryozenji with no guesswork. Prices vary by material and craftsmanship, but the simplest version is plenty for your first trip.

Practical Items to Bring

Beyond the outfit, here are the bare minimum items a beginner should bring.

Beginner Essentials Checklist
  • Comfortable shoes (hiking shoes for walking pilgrims)
  • Rain gear (folding umbrella or rain jacket)
  • Small coins for offerings (500–1,000 yen per day)
  • Seal fees (500 yen × number of temples)
  • Candles and incense (can buy at Temple No. 1)
  • Name slips (white for 1st–4th pilgrimages)
  • A lighter or matches

Big-Picture Budget

Here is a budget guide for a beginner doing the full pilgrimage (tooshi-uchi) in one go.

Item Estimated Cost
Basic outfit (3 items) 5,000–10,000 yen
Temple seal fees (500 yen × 88) 44,000 yen
Lodging and meals (10–12 days) 100,000–150,000 yen
Transport (car, gas, tolls) 30,000–50,000 yen

For deeper details on outfit and budget, please also see these articles.

Forward, Reverse, Full, and Segmented: Which Pilgrimage Style Fits a Beginner?

Forward, Reverse, Full, and Segmented: Which Pilgrimage Style Fits a Beginner?

Ohenro has several pilgrimage styles. The names sound complex, but the meanings are simple once you break them down.

Forward vs. Reverse Pilgrimage

Forward pilgrimage (jun-uchi) visits the temples in order, from No. 1 to No. 88. The road signs and guidance are built around this direction, so beginners should generally choose forward order first.

Reverse pilgrimage (gyaku-uchi) goes from Temple No. 88 back to No. 1. It is said to bring three times the blessings in a leap year. However, road signs face the opposite way, so it is more difficult for beginners.

Full vs. Segmented Pilgrimage

Full pilgrimage (tooshi-uchi) visits all 88 temples in one continuous trip. Walking takes about 40 days, while driving takes around 10–12 days.

Segmented pilgrimage (kugiri-uchi) splits the journey into several separate trips. It is popular among those who cannot take long vacations, and many spread it across one to two years.

Style Features Best For
Forward Temple 1 → 88 All beginners
Reverse Temple 88 → 1 Experienced / leap-year pilgrims
Full All in one continuous trip Those with long vacations
Segmented Split into several trips Those with work/family commitments

Recommended Combination for Beginners

For first-time pilgrims, “forward + segmented” is the most approachable combination. You start from Temple No. 1 in order, and divide the journey across long weekends or short holidays.

Curious Visitor
Forty days straight seems unrealistic for me, so splitting it up sounds much more doable.
Hajime
Exactly. Many beginners start with segmented pilgrimage. The realistic pace that completes one full loop in one to two years usually fits daily life without breaking your schedule!

If you would like to learn more about full and segmented pilgrimage, see this article.

Common Beginner Questions About Ohenro: Clearing Up Doubts on How to Start and Etiquette

Is it OK to start Ohenro alone?
I cannot read sutras. Can I still do Ohenro?
What is the shortest way to finish Ohenro?
Is it true that a reverse pilgrimage in a leap year brings triple blessings?
My elderly parent wants to try Ohenro for the first time. I’m worried.

Don’t Regret Your First Ohenro: Smart Options to Reduce the Burden for Beginners

Don't Regret Your First Ohenro: Smart Options to Reduce the Burden for Beginners

Let’s recap everything one more time.

  • Ohenro is absolutely fine for beginners — no experience required
  • Start in 3 steps: pick a season → prepare your outfit → begin at Ryozenji
  • Do not aim for perfect etiquette — gassho and sincerity are what matter
  • The minimum outfit is the white robe, stole, and sutra book (from 5,000 yen)
  • Beginners do best with the “forward + segmented” combination

Seen this way, Ohenro is easier to start than most people imagine, isn’t it?

That said, we still hear plenty of concerns: “I can’t take long time off,” “gathering the outfit sounds complicated,” “my elderly parents want to walk it but no longer have the strength.”

Curious Visitor
I understand the “how,” but I still can’t take a long vacation. And my parents say they want to go, but they can no longer handle it physically.
Hajime
We hear that a lot. At Ohenro Gift Service, we prepare the full outfit and sutra book, and walk the 88-temple route on your behalf. We take the complexity of preparation and etiquette off your shoulders, turning your heart’s wish into something you can hand to your family!

Your sutra book is stamped with real seals and calligraphy from all 88 temples. We also include photos of the route, so your family truly feels that the pilgrimage was completed for them.

Whether you cannot take the time off yourself, or you want someone to walk on your family’s behalf, just reach out. We’ll build the right plan together. Cost, timing, and how to present it as a gift are all flexible.

Any question is welcome — about the pilgrimage itself, about ways to walk it, or about the small hesitations beginners feel. A consultation alone is perfectly fine.

» Visit Ohenro Gift Service